Obectra ist ein Label aus Berlin, das wie kein anderes zur Zeit das Nachtleben der Stadt repräsentiert. Es ist beeinflusst von hemmungslosen Fetischparties im Kitkat und nicht enden wollenden Berghain-Nächten. Anlässlich der Berlin Fashionweek habe ich mich mich Blaz Cuk, dem Kopf hinter Obectra getroffen und mit ihm über Stil, die Modeindustrie und das Berliner Nachtleben gequatscht. Das Interview findet ihr, wenn ihr unter der Galerie auf „weiterlesen“ klickt.
Tell me what Obectra is about.
Blaz: Obectra is inspired by the nightlife of Berlin. Basically I design clothes that I want to wear. For me it was always hard to find clothes that I like. The Brand is still in the process of growing though. And I am promoting slow fashion. I hate fast fashion and I hate the fashion industry for becoming this. People forget how clothes are made. I make measured stuff. The clients have conversations about measurements for the first time, when they come. We talk about the colour, the design, the fit and stuff like that. So I am trying to promote this back to basic stuff, how fashion began, in ateliers.
What do you like about Berlin’s nightlife when it comes to fashion?
Blaz: I like that it’s comfortable. I like that people are experimenting with fashion in a different way. It’s not about being fancy, it’s not about how much make up you have on or high heels or cleavage, so that the boobs come out. I like that girls wear boots, Dr. Martens. I don’t know if you saw my fashion show. There was no person, that was wearing high heels and models where so thankful, in a way. Because we connected. This is who we are as people. This is how we go out. If we want to be more specific: I like that my clothes are connected to Berghain or Kitkat. It’s a nice compliment for my work. I like that people are wearing black and harnesses. It’s a lot of sex as well when we go out, but not in a trashy way. People are just going out with vintage t-shirts that are almost falling apart. Of course that is not good for fashion business. But I like to be surrounded by that, the vibe of it. I also like that people don’t judge. Of course, if you see a really hot babe, or a guy, that is dressed on point, you give him a compliment. People are not trashed down by others like, „oh look at that slut.“ No. In Kitkat everybody is a slut. It’s freedom in a way.
Black is like a signature colour for Berlin. Do you think that out of this black mass will come an anti-movement towards more colourful styles?
Blaz: There is a colourful movement already here in Berlin. I mean you have so many Berlin based designers that are doing massive colour collections, as well as black. I think it doesn’t have to become an anti movement. No, it can go and it already goes hand in hand, really well together. Let’s focus on a specific area, which is Berghain. For sure the majority is wearing black, but then you have those people that are full of colours. Suddenly you see a guy with a colourful leggings and top, with make up on. I don’t think there will be an anti-black movement. I hope not. Black is not a trend. It’s a lifestyle I think.
In which club are you seeing the most impressive looks for yourself?
Blaz: I like how people are expressing themselves in Kitkat. It’s mind-blowing how much creativity they have, when they are dressing up for the fetish parties. It’s insane. I love that people there are not shy about their body. You see types of all shapes, of all colours, naked, in harnesses or latex or like, in ripped clothes and their putting stuff on their body, that is squeezing them. I like their make up and that everybody is sweaty. It’s really beautiful to see that people are so relaxed and how they are celebrating their bodies. In Berghain some people may wear fetish wear, but you don’t go there for this reason. I think Kitkat is a bigger inspiration for that.
Why don’t you like fast fashion?
Blaz: Because it’s just about sales, about numbers. It’s not caring about the world. fashion is much much more. What certain fashion designers are doing is art. They are artists. And those big brands are using them. They are making billions with collections. I don’t know if you know about the history of fashion. In the 90s LVMH started to buy those huge designers to create huge brands and then fashion became business. That was the moment when fashion stopped being art and started being just clothes, just collections. That’s why Tom Ford left Gucci for example. That was the moment everything became a fucking chaos. The industry is just using the designers. In the ninetees we were talking about millions. By now we are talking about billions. If you are not making a billion per year, you are not good enough. The pressure, that these designers have, is insane. I like to create my own world. I like to break rules and find my own. To do what I want to to. Nobody can tell me that it’s impossible to be successful like this. It is possible. You just need to have a clear vision, to focus and to work.
Alle auf den Bildern zu sehende Styles sind by Obectra. Checkt Obectras‘ online Store hier aus.